Friday, January 11, 2008 - Davis Mountains State Park, Fort Davis TX
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Spending the morning in Marfa
What a disappointing experience my visit to Marfa, Texas and The Chinati Foundation turned out to be. This is not my kind of place. My reactions are a contradictory mix. The town is being transformed into an art object and commercial art destination. It's architecturally quite an attractive town and what is being done is well done but it seems to me to be too controlled, too contrived, too cold. I hail from Columbia County, New York which is in the midst of an art renaissance of its own and is also seeing its county seat, Hudson, transforming into an art destination, but in a less structured way that I find quite appealing, warm and friendly. Marfa is too tightly structured for me. It's my impression the town has been taken over by Judds and Judd interests. Most of the buildings on the street before the county courthouse have been painted and the windows blanked out on those that are not yet developed in a unified theme that seems to indicate a common ownership and thrust of development.
For some reason the Museum is purposely hard to find - there are no street signs to guide one there and once found the entrance seems to invite one not to enter. Why? The museum is open for tours only and there is no guidance to signing up.
I was offended enough by all this that I left town in a short while.
An afternoon and evening at McDonald Observatory
From Marfa I went north to Fort Davis in search of a campsite at Davis Mountains State Park. Driving up I realized I became aware I was approaching the McDonald Observatory, home of Sandy Wood's StarDate radio shorts I've heard all these many years. Road signs and observatory domes above the horizon were a big help here. An internet search turned up their website and got me thinking I might sign up for their Twilight and Star Party programs tonight. Later in the afternoon, I went up to the observatory.
This was such an enjoyable experience I decided to grab the opportunity and signed up for the observatory's usually sold out 36" Telescope Special Viewing Night tomorrow night.
Night camp
Davis Mountains State Park Campground, Fort Davis TX
- This is a nice, well maintained campground with level gravel sites with electric & water, and some with full hookups
- There is good biking on the park roads and hiking trails in the hills
- Good Verizon cell phone service - Access is via Extended Network, roaming
- No Verizon EVDO service - access is via the Extended Network and service is slow
- Find other references to Fort Davis
- List the nights I've camped here
- Check the weather
- Reserve a site
- Get a Google Street View and a map
Listening
As the poet Gary Snyder said so well, "Beyond all this studying and managing and calculating, there's another level to nature. You can go about learning the names of things and doing inventories of trees, bushes, and flowers. But nature often just flits by and is not easily seen in a hard, clear light. Our actual experience of many birds and wildlife is chancy and quick. Wildlife is known as a call, a cough in the dark, a shadow in the shrubs. You can watch a cougar on a wildlife video for hours, but the real cougar shows herself only once or twice in a lifetime. One must be tuned to hints and nuances." After more than thirty years of living in the foothills of the Sierra Nevada and spending a great deal of that time out-of-doors, Snyder has seen the mountain lion on just a few occasions. One of these sightings was most unusual. Gary had been visiting a neighbor and was walking down from the nearby ridge to his home when he observed a cougar sitting near one of the windows of the house. The animal appeared to be listening intently as one of Snyder's stepdaughters practiced the piano.